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Latest Review

Royal Models - Ice cream Time 

 

Opening RM's attractive box you are greeted with a number of very small pieces cast in a dark grey resin. With any resin figure, it's at this point things can go a number of ways due to any of the following, lacks detail, paddles for hands and a few bumps and lumps that nearly resemble a face. Mould lines and flash that require massive amounts of clean up before you even think about piecing the figure together and applying paint. Warped parts that give an arm an extra elbow or legs with extra knees etc., etc.
Well to my delight NONE of the above applies to this model. The finest of details of each finger shows through, the face is wonderfully reproduced. Mould lines and flash where none existent and as for warping, none what so ever.

You will notice in the photos (See Gallery) some of the pieces are attached to large blocks of waste resin. This had me worried as the resin has a really hard brittle feel to it that could cause problems separating the parts. This was not the case though as the resin is easily cut with a sharp scalpel blade and a bit of firm pressure applied.

All parts were removed, cleaned and set aside it was time to choose my paints and glue. For the glue I chose VMS Flexy 5K CA resin special cement a cyanoacrylate glue that offers a little bit of time to set. For base coat, I used MSD flat black as this paint is quite thin straight from the bottle so it could be applied in small coats so as not to swamp the finer details of the model and has a very quick drying time. Once base coated I dry brushed the mine with Citadel paints lead-belcher to give it a metallic look before adding the main paint coat.

A thin coat of Vallejo flat brown was then applied and once dried, another very light dry brush of lead-belcher again to bring out the metallic look. Over this I applied a coat of Citadel agrax earthshade to add a dirty look to the paint and to tone down the brown and metal colours. The noughts and crosses were added in MSD flat white Before dabbing Citadel typhus corrosion around the nuts, bolts and protrusions. Once dried I went over them again with Vallejo light rust effect wash. Once dried it was glued to the base which was painted with Vallejo desert yellow and dry brushed with Vallejo Iraqi sand.

Next came the boy eating the ice-cream again based with MSP flat black. First I added the flesh tones for this back to MSP paints for their tanned flesh, once dry I applied the Citadel hoeth blue to the shirt. Next, I painted the shorts in Citadel xereus purple (I do love the crazy names given to war gaming paints) followed by socks, shoes and hair. Also after dry I test fit the figure to the base again, this also helps me visualise the finished piece and helps with final colouring as I don't want the two pieces looking like they don't belong together

Once all the base colours are applied I spent a little time touching up edges where the different colours meet. Then I added a touch of aweful,  and a dot of hoeth blue (20 or more attempts to get them to where I was happy). Shoelaces where done with a flat black.agrax earthsade to the hair to bring out some of the detail, the same applied to the boots. then I mixed a little white through the tanned flesh paint to lighten it and dry brushed the areas of skin to soften them and give them a bit of life. A light dry brushing of white paint on the clothes reduced the glossyness and picks out the detail. Finally I painted in the eyes with a touch of citadel pallid witch flesh for the whites and you end up with a beautiful addition to a diorama or as a stand-alone figure to decorate your shelf.

 

Thanks to Royal Model for giving me the chance to complete this model.
Is challenging? Yes, but even with modesthesitateWell I’ve rambled on enough now and I should draw to a close, so I will say this as my final words. The quality of this figure is superb from the moment the box is opened and you see the detail the urge to put glue and paint to the pieces is overwhelming. If you happen to come across this figure don’t hesitate to buy it!

(Wayne Lawson JoS Member)

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Model Art Decal System 

Our first review of decals is attributed to Model Art Decals who produce some very attractive alternative markings for 1/48 and 1/72 model aircraft. Decals from this company are very well printed and follow the more recent trend of having a high gloss finish. The decals themselves are not as delicate as some I have recently used but this in no way affects them adhering seamlessly to the chosen surface. Price wise Model Art decals are highly competitive and each sheet in their aircraft range comes packed with detail.

 

Established in 1988 and based in the UK, MODEL ART DECAL SYSTEM produce their decals and accessories with a strong bias towards Royal Navy and French Air Forces.  Their range covers a variety of early through modern aircraft found in these services and a few others besides. Their GALDECAL range however is exclusively dedicated to Finnish military aviation throughout its history (Martinsyde Buzzard, Nieuport 16, Caudron C.59. B.Ae. Hawk, F-18 Hornet etc).

 

JoS has recently received an example of sheet 72/065 which features some very attractive options for the F8N Crusader in French naval markings and a plethora of Royal Navy College and Station flight DH.82 Tiger Moths plus a generous amount of spare dayglo to be going on with.

 

In addition to a useful range of generic numbers/letter and dayglo shapes, MADS do a limited range of resin accessories geared towards modern weapons and stores and we will review these in due course.

 

Model Art Decals and accessories can be ordered from their wesite at: www.modartdec.com (Please mention Joy of Sprue when ordering)

 

Alclad II - Kleer Kotes  

 

JoS received this new line of clear coats from Alclad II for our workshop, and I was immediately curios. Back in March 2011, Alclad announced the introduction of 6 new finishes to their product catalog. these were:

 

ALC 311 Klear Kote Light Sheen 4oz/120ml
ALC 312 Klear Kote Semi-Matte 4oz/120ml
ALC 313 Klear Kote Matte 4oz/120ml
ALC 314 Klear Kote Flat 4oz/120ml
ALC 408 Armoured Glass Tint 1oz/30ml
ALC 600 Aqua Gloss Clear 4oz/120ml

 

Bare metal finishes on model kits don’t scare me. They just disappoint with the fact that clear coating and sealing the finished model, renders our long hours of prep with a less than realistic looking model. I like the buffing properties of Model Master ‘buffing’ Aluminum Metalizer but the finish although good, does not lends itself to all bare metal scenarios.

I’ll be honest, although many swear by Alclad, I was a little hesitant to test these products – something I’m sure is a common concern? So here's a review by another modeller with much the same reservation:

 

(Review) 

'Anyway, I did painted my F86-F with Alclad2 DURALUMINUM ALC 102.

The model came with a nice set of decals printed by none other than Cartograf, so for the moment of truth? Should I leave the model finish raw like I use to? or should I seal the whole model and give a uniform sheen to it? I had to take the model outside for painting, I have no spray booth and these coats are made with mineral spirits and alcohol.

 

Temperature and humidity plays a big influence with lacquers and enamels. So my humidity was right but it was a bit cold still in the morning. Around 10 in the morning the temperature to paint was very good. Outside I went with my AZTEK A-470 airbrush, a brand new bottle of Klear Koat Semi-Matte ALC 312 and a white hi-flow nozzle. The clear coat flows very nice straight out of the bottle without further thinning.

Viola! For the first time I get a nice protected bare metal finish, without loosing long hours of prep to a dull finish thanks to a less than good product. The folks at Alclad2 recommend at least and hour to handle the model. True, but if you still need to handle to add final touches, e.g. landing gear, bay doors, etc, you might still encounter a slightly sticky surface.

 

Although it left no finger prints, it is a lot better if you let it dry overnight or until that unpleasant mineral spirits odor is gone. That’s a good indication that the surface is completely cured.

This product is ideal and I look forward to trying the Aqua Gloss ALC 600 and the rest of the new coats and metal finishes missing from my paint stash in the near future. If you ask me if the new Klear Kotes from Alclad are worth trying and I highly recommend using them!

The Joy of Sprue is always looking for people to do reviews of kits, paints, books - in fact anything to do with our hobby. If you feel you could write a review, take photographs to illustrate where necessary, then we'd love to hear from you at: joyofsprue@clubmember.org All reviews will remain posted for a minimum of seven days unless withdrawn by admin. (JoS)

Chip & Nick - Auto Chipping  Paint 

 

Creating realistic chipping isn't always easy, and many of us modellers struggle while creating realistic chips and scratches. With VMS reversed chipping technique you don't need special painting skills - random super-realistic chips and scratches appear automatically and everyone is guaranteed to achieve stunning results!

 

Chip & Nick is one of kind intelligent paint created to help you create super realistic chipping effects on your model with minimum skill. VMS chipping paint works via their unique “reversed chipping” technique. One simply needs to apply the paint over the model and then remove portions of it with so that only chipping effects remain.

 

Chip & Nick doesn't add thickness to your weathering as hair-spray and similar fluids do, paint optically melts with the base for an outstanding result. Paint is reversible - there is no danger of bad chipping as you can always remove excessive paint. Chip & Nick allows you to create super fine chips that were so far reserved to fine brush technique in a fraction of the time needed and completely hassle-free. Paint allows for multicolour chipping effects whereas hair-spray techniques and “washable” paints allow for just one colour due to their lack of resistance to water. 

 

Your Model must be varnished with VMS Varnish HD or equivalent prior use! Please refer to product FAQ for details! Chipping paint is available in 2x30ml bottles in each pack. Colours and chipping aid also sold separately. Recommended techniques: Brush

 

More information and video demo:

https://www.vms-supplies.com/vms-chipping-paint

 

MicroSol and MicroSet 

 

MicroSol setting solution is for the most difficult irregular surfaces you find on models. It completely softens the Microscale Decal allowing it to drape down onto the surface of the model conforming perfectly and without distortion. You can get the most amazing results in seemingly impossible places, because MicroSol actually makes the decal part of the paint. For that reason you should coat MicroSol on for only a few seconds and then leave it alone, it does the work. Do not touch until dry as the decal is very soft at this stage and could be easily damaged. Make sure the area under where the decal will sit is nice and glossy, for cars this won't be a problem. If you are doing something with a dull coat just gloss the whole model so it looks even when you dull coat it in the end.

 

MicroSet is a very versatile decal setting solution that does several things to the Microscale and most other decals to improve application. MicroSet should be applied to the surface of the model where you will be sliding off the decal. MicroSet prepares the surface with special wetting agents that cuts the oils in new paint and converts the adhesive on the back of the decal to a stronger and more lasting one. And finally, Micro Set slightly softens the decals film to make it more flexible so that it can conform better to the model's surface. Better adhesion by the decal to the model prevents tiny air bells from occurring and results in an invisible carrier film or the so called 'painted on look.

So first of all, wet the decal and while it is soaking/loosening from the paper, put some MicroSet down with a brush where the decal will be. Slide the decal off and position it, drop a little more MicroSet on top of it. When it is settling down after about 5 min or so take a paper towel tip and gently pat it down pressing it into the detail. You can use more coats of MicroSet at this point if it isn't behaving properly. Sometimes this isn't all that's required and if you're not happy with the result, brush some MicroSol on top. Don't be worried but most probably that decal is going to wrinkle up like a raisin (or worse) 

DON'T touch the decal after using MicroSol until it is completely dry!!! (I would give it several hours) Voice of experience here, it's a fast way to destroy a decal!! 

Now it should be lying flat once it dries. When it is dry and cured (at least 24 hours) I would gloss over the decals. The only reason I say this, is even if you plan on using a enamel or lacquer top coat, the gloss coat will help protect the decal from any strong solvents. It also makes it harder to scratch or tear them until you chose your final finish.  Again, the biggest tip I can give you is handle the decal as little as possible when using MicroSet, and if you need to move the decal use MicroSet to re-wet it again instead of water. 

Number two would be don't touch that thing once the MicroSol goes on - I can almost gaurantee bad things will happen! But once you've had some experience and get a few decals down with them, they'll look almost painted on! (JoS)

Citadel Snow Effect - Textured Paint 

 

A single pot of 'Valhallan Blizzard' is around £4.50. I'd love to tell you how much paint you get for the price but for the life of me I can't find an amount, so I'll say it's a little larger than a bottle of Vallejo. The paint itself is a similar consistency to a household emulsion with a very fine sand mixed through it. Because of the consistency dipping the brush and painting as you would with regular paint just won't work, instead you have to scoop the paint onto your chosen pallet before you start. I've found three ways to apply this paint so far.

 

The first way is to take a small amount of paint with your brush and press it to the model and work it into place using the bristle tips of the brush, this gives you the fluffy snow effect that can be seen on the snow ball in the yetis hand, the more you stipple the better the effect. The second way can be seen on the base, again start by taking a little of the paint and press it on the surface you wish to cover, now this time instead of using the bristle tips use the edge of the bristles and lightly press the surface of the paint this will give a flatter snow effect similar to snow that has thawed a little the refrozen.

 

The third and final use can be seen on the fur of the yeti, this can be achieved by taking up a little of the paint onto your brush and using the same technique as dry brushing, the paint will adhere in small clumps on a raised surface and give the effect of freshly fallen snow or the cling you get when fur/cloth etc have laid on the ground snow.

 

Well I hope this helps and you find it useful. Any questions I will try to answer (Through contacts page) and if I find any other techniques for using it I will update this post. Thanks for reading everyone, happy modelling. (WL for JoS)

Balsa-Foam® 

 

Balsa-Foam® is a rigid phenolic foam specifically developed for three-dimensional design, sculpting, and model making. It has been available on the continent for some years but now modellers in the UK are finding out more of its use in modelling. Balsa-Foam® has excellent chemical resistance and can be glued together with adhesives from carpenter’s glue to gel-type cyanoacrylate (superglues). It can be painted with any kind of water-based or solvent-based paint or coating and an initial coating of spray paint will help to seal the foam. Solvent-based paints tend to leave surface texture intact, while acrylic paints tend to fill the texture.


Since Balsa-Foam® has no rebound, it will hold a very sharp impression. This means you can create detailed shapes by simply pressing any object into the surface. An ideal for making moulds for 'cold-casts' maybe? Balsa-Foam® is available in three different densities: Balsa‐Foam® 5pcf*, Balsa-Foam®10pcf and Balsa-Foam® 20pcf. (5pcf and 10pcf is also known as Balsa-Foam® I and II) Carving knives and chisels virtually glide through the Balsa-Foam® 5 pcf and also cut relatively easy through the denser, harder Balsa-Foam® (10 pcf & 20 pcf) and aside from density, all 3 versions of Balsa-Foam® are essentially the same.

 

At the moment the only supplier we can find is Brevico Modelling (Germany) who have an Excellent mail order service. (JoS) 

 

*Pcf stands for Pound per Cubic Foot (lb/ft3)

Lacquers (Cellulose) 

 

Becoming better known among modellers, lacquer paint was once the preserve of body shops and custom car painting specialists but now they are making inroads to the modelling world.

For modelling purposes, a lacquer is distinguished from other paints by the solvent used which is cellulose.  This makes it very different from other types of paint and gives it the following characteristics:

  • Highly toxic and very strong smelling!

  • Fast drying;

  • Very flammable;

  • Hard, durable, shiny finish (although some flat lacquers are available).

Because lacquers are very fast drying, highly toxic, flammable and very unforgiving they can be a real pain to use. The shiny hard wearing coat is ideal for auto models – particularly radio control which need to survive the real world.  Lacquers are also great for realistic metallic finishes and one of the most popular ranges of metallic lacquers is made by Alclad II and since full details of how to apply them are on their website I will not repeat them here.

Another range of lacquer paints popular with modellers is the ‘Mr Color’ range from Gunze Sangyo (not to be confused with their ‘Mr Hobby’ paint range).  Tamiya produce a range of lacquer spray cans and Testors produce some clear lacquer coats under their Model Master range. As we write, other manufacturers are announcing their plans to add lacquer paint to their range.

There is a wierd contradiction with lacquer paints and plastic modelling.  Cellulose melts plastic, so you might think that you would not want to get a lacquer paint in direct contact with the plastic surface.  However, there are some lacquer based spray primers.  Because the lacquer spray is so thin, it dries within seconds before it does any damage to the plastic surface, but it just has enough time to key into the plastic giving it very good grip.

Lacquers will almost certainly need to be applied very thin by spray can or airbrush in a very well ventilated area and with a protective mask.  Use only cellulose thinners and use them well and often if you value your airbrush. Finally, due to their flammability many mail order and Internet shops will not ship them either inland or by airmail so you might have to find a local source. (JoS)

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